Malta in November
The fortified city of Mdina in Malta
Malta Vacation Itinerary, 3-4 Days
Malta Is Wonderful in the Fall
South of Sicily, smack dab in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea you find the small island nation of Malta. The promise of temperatures in the low twenties in November, striking architecture, and interesting history had us enticed.
I am slightly embarrassed to admit that when Di first pitched the idea, I assured her Malta belongs to Spain and was not a country. I should really get my facts straight before making such a silly statement. Sorry, Malta.
In this post, we will highlight a 3-4 day itinerary for you, that could be perfect for a short weekend getaway from many European cities.
The view of Valletta from the Lower Barrakka Garden, Malta
Although we stayed in Malta for 6 nights we had scheduled a couple of days for working on the blog. With a full week, you could explore more or spend a day or two and enjoy the beaches, sunshine, and warmth.
Flying to Malta
Skyscanner and the inexpensive Ryan Air flight Di found from Ireland also played a role in deciding that our next destination would be Malta.
We generally have a rough idea of what we are looking for as we explore options online before making a decision. Flights out of any given destination also factor in.
We always cherish the sensation when you arrive at a warmer destination relative to the country you have just left. Although we arrived around 8 pm we could still feel the warm evening breeze in Malta. Our luggage was all carry-on and passport control was swift.
The stairs leading to St. James Cavalier in Valletta, Malta
Malta Airport to Valletta
I do not think we have ever been out of an airport as quickly as in Malta. Had we arrived earlier in the day and known Malta had excellent public transportation, we would have taken the bus to our final destination. Instead, we booked a taxi from the taxi stand by the airport exit.
For the cab fares, all Malta destinations are listed with prices on a large info board, which takes the guessing game and haggles out the equation. €18.00, $20.50 and we were on our way to our Airbnb.
We find we are not always as adventurous as we think we should be. Especially with evening arrivals, we are usually eager to get to our accommodation quickly and safely, even if it is not the most economical option.
We typically avoid flights arriving later than nine or ten in the evening unless it is the only option.
Airbnb in Msida
We had opted for an Airbnb in Msida, a small town next to Valletta, which is the main city and historical center of Malta. We booked six nights at $25.00 per night for a room at Kwame & Fatima's apartment.
Our room was a private queen room, which we thought meant we would have a queen-size bed. This, unfortunately, was not the case. Instead, we cozied up for six nights on a 3/4 sofa bed. It was our error, as we discovered when we re-read the listing.
Let us be honest, it was not ideal but nor was it a disaster. There was a shared bathroom and we had full use of the spacious living room and kitchen. We had planned to work on the blog and cook most of our meals so all in all, it worked out okay.
Given the choice again we would book accommodation in central Valletta, albeit at a different price point. A lasting memory from Malta will be our battle with mosquitos. We came unprepared and the mosquitos knew it.
The pool in the Mediterranean Sea at Sliema Beach in Malta
Getting Around Malta
In Malta, you have several options for your transportation needs. Rental cars, taxis, scooters, hop-on-hop-off buses, private tours, or regular public buses.
We looked at all of the above and decided the public transit bus was the way to go for us. The other choices were somewhat costly and as it turns out Malta has a good, affordable public transportation system.
We took the bus to and from Valletta a couple of times, did a full day of sightseeing, and explored Sliema. When it came time to head back to the airport, we opted for the bus again and saved about €15.00, $17.00, compared to the taxi option.
Search for Routes and Timetables
Malta by Bus
Bus tickets, in the winter months, when we visited, were €1.50 and valid for two hours. The summer rate is €2.00. You can also purchase a book of ten tickets, single-day passes, or multi-day passes. We might have saved a Euro or two had we bought a book of tickets but we preferred the flexibility of pay as you go.
Waiting for the bus to take us from Dingli Cliffs to the Blue Grotto. Valletta can be seen in the distance.
Day 1
Valletta Free Walking Tour
Many, if not all major European cities offer free walking tours. We suggest finding one to join as it is an excellent introduction to a new city right off the bat. There are often several different tours depending on the time of year you visit.
Read a few reviews and find a good fit for you. It is the smart way to get the lay of the land. We often find ourselves going back to the same sights during our stay to explore further.
If at the end of a free walking tour you are happy, you should tip the guide an amount you find appropriate and feel comfortable with.
The meeting place for our free walking tour was the Triton Fountain near the main entrance to Valletta. Google indicated it would be a 40-minute walk from our Airbnb in Msida so we figured why not.
The only problem was we did not factor in the heat, being directly in the sun, or the fact we would be walking for the rest of the day also.
We quickly revised our plans to catch a bus back later in the day. The walk from Msida to Valletta was interesting enough and you see things you certainly would miss if going by bus.
Unfortunately, you also see decay and many run-down buildings. The city gets tidier and cleaner the closer you get to the center and the Triton Fountain.
Triton Fountain in Valletta, Malta was the meeting spot for several free walking tours. It is also located very close to the main bus terminal.
History of Malta
Julia, our enthusiastic guide for the two-hour tour recapped Malta’s tumultuous history of occupation by foreign forces.
Fans of strategic alliances the Maltese enlisted the aid of their occupier’s worst enemy only to rebel against their rescuers at a later point in time.
This fate befell the Romans, the Spanish, the Italians, and the French. After a period as a British colony from 1813-1964, Malta became an independent state.
In 1974 it became a republic and has been a member of the EU since 2004 and was a 2018 European cultural capital city.
The fortified city of Valletta, Malta
The entire city of Valletta is a Unesco World Heritage Site, a topic Julia mentioned is controversial in Malta. On one hand, the Unesco stamp of approval provides exposure, yet on the other hand, the Maltese would like more autonomy.
As an example, Julia mentioned development plans for the Royal Opera House which would not go ahead as they had not been approved by Unesco.
Barrakka Garden
The walking tour continued via several historical buildings to the Upper Barrakka Garden where you witness the ceremonial firing of the canons. A twice-daily occurrence at noon and 4 pm.
The tour stayed close to the commercial streets in the central part of Valletta and we made a brief stop for refreshments and a very tasty local pastizzi, a traditional pastry filled with either ricotta or mushy peas.
Views of Valletta from the street as you approach the Upper Barrakka Garden
We loved the pea version and at €0.50 and up you can sample quite a few traditional or nontraditional ones offered all over Malta. These are a must-try.
Day 2
Valletta Self-Guided Walking Tour
We had not seen all of Valletta on the free walking tour and decided to head back on day two for a self-guided walk of Valletta and Birgu, an old fortified city across from the harbor.
We planned a route along the outer city boundaries with the occasional detour through the narrow city streets. Another beautiful day was ahead of us with lots of sunshine and temperatures in the low twenties.
The Valletta city walls at Hastings Garden, Malta
It was a quiet Saturday morning with very few tourists in the streets. First up was Hastings Gardens which offered a view of Ta ‘Xbiex and Manoel Island.
Valletta is a fortified city and I would estimate the walls at Hastings Garden to be at least 10 meters thick. An impressive engineering and construction accomplishment from the sixteenth century.
Valletta Restaurations
During our wander through the nontourist areas, a common theme we noticed was small and large-scale renovations, often jointly funded by the EU. Pristine old buildings, many with classic colorful sun verandas, left in decay are now being brought back to life.
Valletta is already an impressive sight. We can only imagine the spectacle it may become as these renovations are completed.
The hilly streets of Valletta, Malta
We stopped at a small, cozy street-side cafe along Triq San Bastjan near Auberge de Bavière for a €1.00 espresso and €2.00 latte.
As we relaxed, we caught glimpses of everyday life; grandma with two grandchildren on the balcony overlooking the harbor, engaged in conversation.
As soon as you move away from the touristy streets you get a sense of life here. Saturday morning and weekly chores were on the agenda.
Laundry day in Valletta, Malta
We heard a spectacle as we approached a street corner and wondered if there had been an accident. It was merely the local men gathered for a lively discussion in a coffee shop.
We treasure these quiet moments when we can observe and if we are lucky capture day-to-day life such as the photo below of the three gentlemen using pallets to repair an old boat. Photography-wise, the reflected light in the narrow streets was amazing.
We finished up the morning with a picnic lunch at the Lower Barrakka Garden overlooking the harbor.
Boat repair along the harbor in Valletta, Malta
Birgu
From the Upper Barrakka Garden, you can take an elevator down to the harbor front level and from there the ferry to Birgu is €2.80 for a return ticket. The ferry departs every half hour.
There is also the option to take a traditional boat, similar to a Venice gondola for a €5.00 return. Di is not the biggest fan of small boats so it was the ferry for us.
Birgu features the impressive Camper and Nicholson Grand Harbour Marina with yachts you only dream of or see in Bond movies.
You can also pay a visit to Fort St. Angelo, The Malta Maritime Museum, the Inquisitor’s Palace, or St. Lawrence Church or merely walk the narrow streets and grab a coffee or lunch along the harbor front.
We did more of the latter, enjoying the sunshine, and took in the view of Valletta from the point at Fort St. Angelo.
Fort St. Angelo and the marina at Birgu as seen from Upper Barrakka Garden, Malta
Day 3
Mdina
The bus for Mdina left from the university at 9:45 am, about a 10-minute walk from our Airbnb in Msida. As mentioned, Malta has a very efficient bus transit system. Punch in your destination in Google maps and your bus options appear complete with departure times and pop-up maps.
We were on a quest to visit three destinations, Mdina, Dingli Cliffs, and the Blue Grotto. The bus was not busy and drove through several small communities which were slowly waking up on a Sunday morning.
Children were happy and smiling as they boarded the bus and the older generation, dressed in Sunday best, appeared to be headed to church.
Mdina is the former capital of Malta, a fortified city dating back to the 8th century BC. It is also one of the main tourist attractions in Malta. Mdina is indeed beautiful with a maze of interesting narrow streets.
However, we did not spend much time here as we had another two stops on our itinerary for the day. After being blown away by Valletta, we were not overly impressed with Mdina. Yes, we do realize how spoiled we are.
The fortified city of Mdina in Malta
Dingli Cliffs
We had amazing timing for the bus to Dingli Cliffs as it left about a minute after we lined up; still within our 2-hour window to use the same bus ticket. The driver was very friendly and made sure we got off at the right spot. Do not trust Google on this one.
Another couple, obvious hikers, were about to get off the bus and figuring they were better informed, we jumped up to follow but our driver stopped us all and said; “wait”.
It was a sunny but very windy day, and our visit was deliberately planned for this day, as we hoped the coastline would show its true colors.
Whitecaps on the Mediterranean Sea on a windy day at Dingli Cliffs, Malta
The Dingli Cliffs stretch over a couple of kilometers and stand 250 meters tall, 820 feet, at the highest point. After walking along the edge for a couple of hours, we took a short break to enjoy our picnic lunch, hiding behind a rock, almost out of the wind.
We relished the experience; the views, the wind, the exercise, and the natural beauty. It all added up to an excellent stop and we rate it a “Do not miss“!
Blue Grotto
On the bus again, this time headed for the Blue Grotto further down the southeast coast of Malta. The schedule seems a bit more fluid along the coast as we waited about 15 minutes for the bus to appear around the bend.
Blue Grotto
The Blue Grotto, not to be confused with the Blue Lagoon in the north, are both popular tourist spots in Malta.
Several restaurants, coffee shops, and small inns line the roadway opposite the coastline at the Blue Grotto. We decided a quick coffee was needed to pep us up before more exploring could be done.
Clouds were rolling in and it was still quite windy but with pleasant temperatures. Often drawn to the water and natural beauty in our travels, the Blue Grotto ticked all of the boxes for us.
We wandered along seawall and rocks and took it all in. In order to see the large sea cave, you have to hike up the road for about 15 minutes. The Blue Grotto gets a thumbs up from us and should also be on your list of things to see in Malta.
Di snapping a few iPhone photos at the Blue Grotto in Malta
Day 4
Sliema Beach
After working on the blog in the morning we set out to explore Sliema Beach in the afternoon. You guessed it, another short bus ride and we were there.
With our bathing suits packed, we were not sure if it was warm enough or if we would go for a swim or not, but better safe than sorry.
A sunlit spot on the rocky beach with a natural stone enclosure and a man-made wall breaking the waves seemed like the perfect location; an ideal spot for a calm and safe swim.
Di was the first in and quickly convinced me to follow. It was the perfect way to round off our stay.
We had not come to Malta to lie on the beach every day but it was still nice to explore the beach areas and discover that the water was not too cold for a dip, even in November.
We struck up a friendly conversation with a Swedish family taking selfies on the beach. A small world moment; they were in front of us in the security line at the airport the next day.
Opting to enjoy every last ray of sun we walked back to Msida along the waterfront and picked up another pastizzi and coffee along the way.
Di hitting the waves at Sliema Beach, Malta
Final Thoughts
Now familiar with the bus system in Malta it was easy to get to the airport when it was time to bid Malta adieu. Sofia in Bulgaria was our next destination.
We will have fond memories of Malta. We only had one day of rain and we scheduled this day for working on the blog, so nothing was missed.
Valletta was magnificent and we could easily have explored more of the streets and alleys. Our day trip to Mdina, Dingli Cliff, and Blue Grotto offered a variety of sights and it was awesome to go for a swim in November at Sliema Beach.
What did we miss? One of the most popular destinations in Malta is the Blue Lagoon located on Camino Island. Due to the high winds, we decided not to make the 5-hour round trip. The Blue Lagoon is said to be magnificent but also a beehive of tourists.
Gozo Island is another location that looks interesting but it too fell outside the scope of this trip for us. With more time and if you have a rental car it may be worth your consideration.
Sleama Beach, Malta
Travel Tips
Malta is in the EU and the currency is in Euro.
If you plan to rent a car, remember Malta was a British colony and they drive on the left side of the road. If this is your first encounter with driving on the left side Malta may not be the best place to start. The city is a myriad of on and off-ramps and roundabouts.
Officially the water is safe to drink but most people do not like the taste of desalinated water. Make sure to pick up bottled water at a supermarket or in one of the many convenience stores.
We had access to a kitchen at our Airbnb, had breakfasts at home, and prepped picnic lunches and dinners at the apartment. If you are traveling on a budget this is a great save on the food budget.
5050 Travelog Destinations
All Travel Destinations
Europe
Southeast Asia
Middle East
Canada and USA
New Zealand
Photos in this article are made using a Fujifilm X-Pro2. Lenses: XF 14mm f/2.8 R - XF 23mm f/1.4 R - XF 35mm f/1.4 R - XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR (links to my camera and lens reviews). Editing was done in Capture One Express. I have made extensive use of Fujifilm film simulations in this article, namely Velvia and Eterna.
