Road Trip to the Kootenays

Mountain views in the Kootenays
Leica SL2-S, Panasonic Lumix S 85mm f/1.8

Road Trip to the Kootenays From Vancouver

It had been eighteen years since our last trip to the Kootenays, when we went to a soccer tournament with our daughter in Nelson. It was also one of the first trips we took (from Silver Star Mountain to Castlegar) back in 1986, when we first set foot in British Columbia.

The long weekend in May seemed like a good time for a road trip before the weather became too hot in the Okanagan and Kootenays. The roads were clear, but snow was still visible on the mountain tops. We had a mix of sun, clouds, and rain, but mostly great weather for driving and exploring.

Okangan Rail Trail near Vernon, BC
Leica SL2-S, Panasonic Lumix S 50mm f/1.8

A Stop in Vernon

Now, Vancouver residents, we have lived in the Okanagan for more than twenty years. On our way to the Kootenays, we stopped for a few days and stayed with our friends Dagny and Philippe.

Before getting into more travel stories and photos, please see the map below for our route, which takes us from Vancouver via the connector into Kelowna and then to Vernon. From here, the route goes through the Crighton Valley to Nakusp. Before getting to Nakusp, take the free short ferry ride from Needles to Fauquier.

The most beautiful part of this leg in from Fauquier to Nakusp along Arrow Lake. Absolutely stunning.

Vancouver to Kootenays road trip map suggestion

In Vernon, we did a few hikes (I will post in my Musings soon where we visited our friends Calvin and Christine), but most notably, we did a wonderful 50-kilometer bike ride on the Okanagan Rail Trail.

We tried something new this time and rented e-bikes, which was a ton of fun. We may have opened a can of worms with this one, as I have been shopping for e-bikes ever since. You can rent bikes or e-bikes at the Kalavida Surf Shop at the trailhead near Kalamalka Lake in Vernon.

Back to the travel route, we stopped for a quick lunch and rest at the beach in Nakusp. We were here mid-week, and only one other person had made it to the beach, and it was surreal to be here with the gorgeous mountain backdrop. It was so quiet I could hear my ears ring.

Morten, Philippe, Diana and Dagny cycling along Kalamalka Lake near Vernon on the Okanagan Rail Trail

Diana told me the water was warmer than she expected in Nakusp (May long weekend)

En Route to the Kootenays

We had booked a couple of nights in a tiny house south of Ainsworth near Queens Bay. The idea was to explore the region and visit Ainsworth Hot Springs.

We picked up a few groceries for our dinner and proceeded south on the Balfour-Kaslo-Galena Hwy. Anticipation was building as we neared the house, as we didn’t know what to expect.

The tiny house, however, exceeded our expectations. It was set near the edge of the lake, and you could vaguely hear the nearby creek. A few steps from our door, we had a fabulous view of Kootenay Lake and the mountains.

Our tiny house rental for two night on Kootenay Lake
Leica SL2-S, Panasonic Lumix S 50mm f/1.8

Tiny house house rental on Kootenay Lake

Tiny House

The tiny house was well laid out, and the owner had thought of many little things that made for a wonderful stay.

I even had a small work desk with a proper footrest and plenty of plugs to charge our electronics. In the morning, we’d sit on the couch, bathed in sunshine as the sun rose over the mountains.

The sleeping loft was not claustrophobic, as we had feared. The kitchen was well-appointed, and the shower and bathroom were better than expected.

All in all, we can certainly recommend this type of accommodation.

Mountain view in the Kootenays on the drive between Nakusp and Kaslo along Hwy 31A
Leica SL2-S, Panasonic Lumix S 85mm f/1.8

Fletcher Creek Falls

Between Kaslo and Ainsworth, we can recommend a stop at the Fletcher Creek Falls Recreation site. You can park on the road above, and it’s a very short walk to the falls. If you walk down to the beach, there is some elevation change to consider. We are 59 and 60 years old as I write this, and we had no problem navigating the trails.

In late May, there was plenty of water flowing in the creek. We hit this short trail mid-morning, and it was a wonderful, serene experience.

By the beach, we saw a guy camping in his tent. What a view he had from his small site right on the banks of Kootenay Lake!

Fletcher Creek Falls in the Kootenays
Leica SL2-S, Voigtländer Nokton 28mm f/1.5

Mountain view at Kootenay Lake from the Fletcher Creek Falls Recreation Site
Leica SL2-S, Panasonic Lumix S 50mm f/1.8

Kaslo River Trail

Another highlight of the morning was the 5K hike we did along the Kaslo River Trail. Two beautiful red-painted bridges allow you to cross the river twice, allowing for a loop hike. We first walked up the river on the south side and back to Kaslo along the north side.

We encountered a few steeper inclines, but we would rate this as an easy hike. The trails were well marked along the way, and there was lots of whitewater on the river, which made for an exhilarating sight.

The bridge and starting point of the Kaslo River Trail
Leica SL2-S, Panasonic Lumix S 50mm f/1.8

Sunflower Sister Cafe, Kaslo

After our morning walks/hikes, lunch was in order. Di found a quaint place in the residential area of town, where we sat in the garden and enjoyed the most divine lunch.

The Sunflower Sister Cafe opened only recently and is run by two French girls. The weather was superb for sitting outside, and the service and food were next level.

We stopped for lunch and coffee at the Sunflower Sister Cafe in Kaslo. We were all smiles.

The Town of Kaslo

Incorporated in the late nineteenth century, Kaslo was initially a sawmill site but grew during the silver boom. Today, Kaslo feels like a sleeper town, and its economy is mainly based on forestry and tourism.

You quickly understand why tourists flock here in the summer months. The town has many quaint homes with reminiscences of the past. You can visit the S.S. Moyie Museum at the harbor dock and see the old sternwheeler (pictured below).

There are also countless activities you could try, such as boating, fishing, hiking, or biking. This corridor is also popular with motorcyclists.

Ainsworth Hot Springs

At the end of an active day, we spent a couple of hours relaxing at Ainsworth Hot Spring. It was surprising to see that little, if anything, had changed since we visited almost twenty years ago. But it didn’t matter. The hot spring is all about natural mineral water and relaxation, and Ainsworth delivered on both fronts.

S.S. Moyie and museum in Kaslo
Leica SL2-S, Voigtländer Nokton 28mm f/1.5

Cawston and Crowsnest Vineyard

Our week was nearing its end, but we had another two days to explore. We broke the drive home into two chunks. On day one, we left the Kootenays and headed for Cawston, where we had booked a night at Crowsnest Vineyard.

This first leg ended up being a fairly concentrated jaunt with only a few stops along the way. We stopped at the Friday market in Grand Forks and had a splendid lunch at Su Casa Mexican Cafe, which is situated about 27 kilometers before you hit Osoyoos on Hwy 3.

This restaurant is in the middle of nowhere, and you can dine inside or outside in the yard. They serve a good fare at reasonable prices.

Our stay at Crowsnest Vineyard was a bit of a mixed bag. The weather had turned cloudy by the time we got there. We arrived an hour early, and our room was not ready, which was understandable. However, when we asked about the wine tasting mentioned in our confirmation, they apologized for not having wine tastings currently.

The oven-baked pizza and excellent salad dinner were terrific. During dinner, a local blues band entertained. The evening stroll in the vineyard was also enjoyable.

Overall, this stay disappointed us slightly, probably partly because we were a bit tired at the end of our trip. The service level was also a mixed bag, and the place seemed as if it was ramping up for the season and a bit run down.

Our stay was no disaster, but we want to keep things real in our blog.

Apple Orchard in Cawston, BC
Leica SL2-S, Voigtländer Nokton 50mm f/1.2

Final Thoughts

This was an excellent road trip for us—1500 kilometers in total. We had lots of good activities in Vernon, and it is always great to see our friends. The road trip to and from the Kootenays was relaxing, with splendid scenery along the way.

Our stay in the Kootenays exceeded expectations. The scenery, rivers, and mountains had us in awe. The tiny house was an excellent base for our stay.

Please keep scrolling for more photos from our road trip to the Kootenays.

The Silvery Slocan Museum in Nakusp
Leica SL2-S, Panasonic Lumix S 50mm f/1.8

Trees, Lake, and Cabins in the Kootenays
Leica SL2-S, Panasonic Lumix S 85mm f/1.8

A Harley-Davidson in Kaslo
Leica SL2-S, Panasonic Lumix S 50mm f/1.8


The photos in this article are made using a Leica SL2-S, Voigtländer Nokton Vintage Line 28mm f/1.5, Voigtländer Nokton 50mm f/1.2, Panasonic Lumix S 50mm f/1.8, and S 85mm f/1.8 lenses (links to my camera and lens reviews).